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How to Make Butterscotch

Filed under Candy, Dessert, How To, Sauce

How to Make Butterscotch

Please welcome guest author pastry chef Shuna Fish Lydon of Eggbeater who shares with us the (almost) lost art of making butterscotch. ~Elise

When was the last time you tasted authentic butterscotch? Flavor, sauce, memory, aroma, era: butterscotch was an all but extinct, or out-of-date substance, and flavor until recently. Now it's all the rage.

Wouldn't you like to know exactly what butterscotch is and how to make it?

Historically, butterscotch was a hard candy made with unprocessed sugar. The suffix "scotch" means "to cut". When sugar or candy is hot it's difficult to get a clean break, so one must score it while warm to facilitate getting a clean edge later.

Today butterscotch is considered a flavor, much like caramel. Made famous at soda fountains by accompanying banana splits, butterscotch sauce has been an American favorite since the 1950's.

Although most Americans are familiar with butterscotch pudding, in recent years what's been readily available is an artificially flavored shadow real butterscotch flavor. My hope is that once you see how easy butterscotch is to make, you'll never go back to the imposter.

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How to Make Butterscotch

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 cup of tightly packed dark brown sugar
  • ¾ cup heavy whipping cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Method

Butterscotch takes about a half an hour to make, from start to finish.

1 First, before you begin, make sure you have everything ready to go - the cream and the brown sugar next to the pan, measured and waiting. Making butterscotch is a fast process that cannot wait for hunting around for ingredients.

2 In a heavy bottomed stainless steel 2 quart saucepan, melt butter over low to medium heat. Just before butter is melted, add all dark brown sugar at once and stir with wooden spoon until sugar is uniformly wet.

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3 Stir infrequently until mixture goes from looking grainy to molten lava. Make sure to get into the corners of your pot, and watch closely to notice how the mixture changes. It will take about 3 to 5 minutes.

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4 Right before you add the cream, the caramelizing brown sugar will begin to look and feel more like liquid and less like thick wet sand.

5 At this point add all the cream at once and replace your spoon with a whisk. Lower heat a little and whisk cream into mixture. When liquid is uniform, turn heat back to medium and whisk every few minutes for a total of 10 minutes.

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6 After liquid has been boiling on the stove for its 10 minutes, turn heat off and let rest for a minute or two before transferring into a heatproof storage vessel. (I prefer a stainless steel or glass bowl.) Cool to room temperature.

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7 When butterscotch liquid is room temperature, take a small taste. It's important to know what cooked brown sugar and butter tastes like, and what happens when transforming that flat sweetness into real butterscotch flavor. Whisk in half the salt and vanilla extract. Taste again. Add more salt and vanilla extract until the marvelous taste of real butterscotch is achieved.

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Butterscotch makes a fantastic topping for ice cream.

Chill butterscotch sauce in a non-reactive container with a tightly fitting lid only after sauce has chilled completely. It will keep for one month refrigerated, that is if you can keep from eating it all the moment it has cooled down and been seasoned to your liking.

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Posted by Shuna Lydon on Mar 27, 2008 and indexed Butterscotch, Caramel

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Comments

i LOVE butterscotch but have never made my own. although my hips and thighs will come to hate you, my tastebuds and other more important body parts are grateful for the step-by-step instructions! :)

Posted by: a. grace on March 28, 2008 2:45 AM

I'll try to ask the obvious questions to get them out of the way...

- Why not ultra-pasteurized heavy whipping cream?
- Have all those recipes I've read over the years that call for adding actual Scotch (liquor) to the mix been lying?

Shuna Fish Lydon, you've been associated with some really amazing places! Gramercy Tavern (a favorite) and French Laundry (on the "to go" list)?

I've been on a toffee binge for a year or so now, so this fits right in. Thanks!

Jonathan,
Thank you for your query. I specify not to use ultra-pasteurized heavy whipping cream because the stabilizers in this dairy product have a bitter tasting edge. As is the case with recipes employing only a few ingredients, you really want the best tasting ones because all you are going to taste here is brown sugar, butter and cream.

All those recipes that told you Scotch or some other spirit was the basis of butterscotch's delicious flavor were wrong, yes. Or one could say they took their own poetic license as all of us do every day with our mix-and-match cookery.

My intention here is not to point fingers but rather to illuminate a forgotten flavor. ~ Shuna

Posted by: jonathan on March 28, 2008 5:06 AM

mmm. how wonderful. I must make this. Normally I cheat and melt good butter toffees for pouring over ice cream.

Posted by: lobstersquad on March 28, 2008 5:44 AM

I'm bookmarking the recipe - we can't find store-bought butterscotch here, so I'll be making my own! Thanks for sharing!

Posted by: Patricia Scarpin on March 28, 2008 6:13 AM

Just excellent, Shuna & Elise - so glad that you are evangelizing for butterscotch. My favorite version of American Apple Pie uses barely cooled butterscotch as a substitute for the brown sugar. (And then I lick the pot.) Butterscotch makes one great apple pie - as my favorite pie eaters will attest.

Posted by: Alanna on March 28, 2008 6:23 AM

Yum! I love all of your recipes and photos Shuna! Cannot wait to try this once my kitchen is unpacked!

Posted by: Garrett on March 28, 2008 6:49 AM

I just read the bottom line of this recipe...stores for a month...thanks again...oh and I have to tell you I'm rather new to your blog but I'm loving it. keep up the great work.

Posted by: priscilla on March 28, 2008 7:18 AM

That looks delicious. A friend of ours has a dessert sauce company called Shootflying Hill Sauce Co. and they put out an unbelievably delicious "Salty Butterscotch sauce," but we will try this recipe soon!

Hello Annalisa,
Thanks so much for the head's up about Shootflying. I'll have to order a jar and compare notes. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Annalisa on March 28, 2008 7:52 AM

Can you explain the New England habit of adding a dash of vinegar to butterscotch?

Hello DtG,
This is a great question. Because butterscotch began its life in the form of a hard candy there are a few "hold-over" ingredients from that particular recipe that can still sometimes be found in butterscotch sauce recipes and methods.

I don't have a degree in science, so explaining exactly why acidic liquid is added to sugar while sugar cooks and melts and reaches high temperatures is difficult in this format. Sugar loves to re-crystallize while it melts and one way of "insuring" that it will not re-crystallize is to add acidic liquid or an invert sugar (the most popular one now being corn syrup.)

Although one source listed cider vinegar as a preservative in butterscotch hard candy making, I believe the addition of vinegar was first used to facilitate sugar's smooth transition from granulated to liquid, and secondly the presence of acid in sweet cookery is like salt in savoury cooking-- vinegar acts as a flavor enhancer.

It should be noted: butterscotch making as we know it today, whether it be for hard candy or sauce, looks very different than the way it did in 1817 and the decades following. ~ Shuna

Posted by: DtG on March 28, 2008 7:53 AM

I read the headline in my feed reader and immediately thought "oh, this better be from Shuna or it's not worth having"...and voila! Keep preaching the butterscotch truth! :)

Posted by: JM on March 28, 2008 8:26 AM

I tried making butterscotch pudding the other day, using the same ingredients as here and on the link to your butterscotch pudding, but it was a different recipe.

My pudding was really grainy, smooth, but with a grainy texture if that makes sense. What can I do to remedy this? The taste was just right, and it set up fine, no lumps, but the grainy texture was a huge detraction. Any tips?

Hello Vicki,
I second your emotions. In the kitchen we call what you're describing as "broken." This can happen for any number of reasons but from my own personal experience (and tears) I think this happens because sugar is acidic and most especially so in brown sugar because molasses is fairly unstable-- both with acid and enzyme content.

Dairy, especially from cows, has a hard time with acidic ingredients. Add lemon to your milk with hot black tea and you'll see what I mean.

In my own recipe I say, "Whisk continuously and violently. Try to whisk at all sorts of angles so that the whisk bottom makes it into the "corners" of the pot. If you are not breaking a sweat or getting sore, you may not be whisking hard enough." And what I found to be true is that few people who do not whisk for a living can handle the kind of whisking this takes.

In David Lebovitz's recipe he reminds us all that the blender can be our friend for butterscotch pudding for this very reason. One of those nifty hand-blenders can also be helpful with small batches.

The point here being that brown sugar is wont to "break" cream and milk but that shouldn't stop us from enjoying its delicious properties. Viva Butterscotch Pudding! ~ Shuna

Posted by: Vicki Tunell on March 28, 2008 8:53 AM

Great recipe. I have made a similar sauce (actually more like a caramel sauce) with a can of PET evaporated milk. Just put the can in boiling water (cover about 3/4 of the can with water) and boil for 30 minutes. Let it cool, open the can...wow! caramel sauce. Cook well, live long!

Posted by: The Cooking Cardiologist on March 28, 2008 9:14 AM

Ooh yum, what you are talking about Cooking Cardio is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dulce_de_leche, and yes that is an equally yummy caramel sauce. I once saw it on tv and was so determined to try it I started it at 7:30 at night, not a good idea since it takes many hours to cook. Although I never did use it all up it was an exotic tasting caramel.

But back to the point, what would you do if you wanted to make butterscotch candy? Heat it more?

Thanks for the awesome recipe.

Hello Liza,
Thanks so much for your question about making butterscotch hard candy. I have little experience with making candy in general but I will say that it is a completely different process than making sauce. I would definitely say the technical level is a bit higher indeed.

I found this and this recipe online with a quick search and both look good in terms of ingredients although for my taste I would always add a little more salt. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Liza on March 28, 2008 9:51 AM

I don't think chef Shuna Fish Lydon looks pasty! Or did you mean Pastry Chef?

Hah! And the gold star goes to you Keith for catching the typo. The same typo has been on Shuna's pavlova recipe for a year, so thank you for your eagle eyes. Both are corrected now. ~Elise

Posted by: Keith F. on March 28, 2008 10:16 AM

I remember making Butterscotch sauce with my grandmother over ** years ago. I was so astonished at the age of 10 that butter, brown sugar, and vanilla would combine into something that I had considered a 'flavor'. Your comments made me clearly remember that 'aha' sensation that food was made not bought. Everyone should try this -- it is pure cooking magic.

Posted by: Sandy on March 28, 2008 11:23 AM

The Cooking Cardiologist - the recipe you describe of "cooking" a can of evoporated milk is for making Cajeta, a delicious Mexican caramel sauce. In the USA it's usually called Dulce de Leche :)

And what a delicious butterscotch recipe, I have been craving ice cream recently, so I have a perfect excuse to make some of this num-num sauce this weekend!

Thanks Mia,
For the sake of gastronomy it should be noted that cajeta is considered to be a caramel made most often with goat's milk. It's an amazing thing that the sugars in butterfat turn themselves immediately into caramel without all of the fuss we usually go to... ~ Shuna

Posted by: Mia on March 28, 2008 12:17 PM

I just LOVE butterscotch. Thank you so much for this recipe! I recently made caramel sauce from scratch, and now I'll have to buy more ice cream to make this. Oh, darn!

One question, though: Can I use light brown sugar? Or must it be dark brown?

Hello Lauren,
Light brown sugar, medium brown sugar, raw sugar, Muscovado sugar, dark brown sugar, demererra sugar-- there are so many options these days! We are very lucky indeed.

Realistically, and truthfully, not a single brown sugar is created equal, and what one country, what one state, considers dark brown another considers light or can not be found and bought the world over.

Without going into an entire explanation of "brown sugars," I will say that using light brown sugar will result in a much too light tasting butterscotch sauce. It's important that the flavor of molasses be present, but not overwhelmingly so-- or that it my taste preference at any rate. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Lauren on March 28, 2008 1:26 PM

Thank you so much, Elise and Shuna, for giving us this great lesson for making a sauce that haunts my childhood dreams. Although I never buy butterscotch in a jar, so have nothing to give up, I have been without butterscotch for many years and now, happily, that will change. Thank you both again.

Posted by: Christine on March 28, 2008 2:01 PM

I fear I must repeat a previously asked question, as I, too, want to know. What is the difference between butterscotch and caramel? Thanks.

Hello LesterK,
Thanks for your question. I fear the explanation will bring us into the sticky realm (pun intended) of the thick and murky nomenclature bog.

Plainly, for the sake of brevity, caramel is made with white sugar and butterscotch is made of brown sugar.

But caramel could also be seen as an umbrella term for a wide range of sugars that caramelize. See above comments-- butterfat can caramelize from a number of animals which give milk, and depending on the region you could be eating Yak caramel or coconut sugar caramel, neither of which fit neatly into these two binary caramels.

I fear your question has spurred in me a number of other questions, and possibly posts, to come. Thank you for your small but grand query! ~ Shuna

Posted by: LesterK on March 28, 2008 2:05 PM

When making butterscotch or caramel, I always add a splash of dark rum. This adds a nice buttery flavor highlight.

Posted by: Mark Boxshus on March 28, 2008 2:27 PM

I have been making homemade butterscotch pudding since I was a kid. I have never made ACTUAL butterscotch, but this is making me crave it!!

Posted by: Mar on March 28, 2008 3:24 PM

Oh lord, you two. What a service you have done! This pregnant woman is just dying to stop typing so she can go into the kitchen and start making butterscotch sauce!

(this would be heaven on top of Danny's coconut ice cream...)

Thank you!

Posted by: shauna on March 28, 2008 4:13 PM

Lester -- as far as I know the difference between homemade caramel and homemade butterscotch is that with caramel you start with white sugar and brown it; with butterscotch you start with the brown sugar -- which has a molasses component (the molasses is removed from the white sugar during processing). I imagine there's a subtle difference in flavor, with the butterscotch being deeper. But I am not a food chemist...

Posted by: Robin on March 28, 2008 4:20 PM

This sounds great, but I have a hard time finding heavy cream that is not ultra-pasteurized in any local stores. Any ideas on where to look?

Hello Lynn,
Without knowing where you might be located, I'm not sure how to help you. Your best bet is to approach your local grocer. Grocery stores that don't stock non-ultra pasteurized dairy make that choice because of spoilage issues-- butterfat is really expensive. Another option might be that you approach a local cook, chef or restaurant owner. Sometimes they'll let you buy a quart or a half gallon at cost. If no stabilizer is listed as an ingredient, you're golden. Best of luck. ~ Shuna

Posted by: lynn on March 28, 2008 5:27 PM

This recipe not only seems easy to make but also usable for a variety of deserts. Thanks for sharing this wonderful recipe!

Posted by: Ruby on March 28, 2008 5:56 PM

You rascally rabbits, I had plans this weekend, PLANS, I tell you. And now it looks like I must stay in for an hour or nine and make and eat this.

Posted by: French Laundry At Home on March 28, 2008 7:08 PM

You are an angel!! I adore butterscotch, but have never given this a try from scratch. This is going to be wonderful! Thanks to you and Shuna.

Posted by: Deborah Dowd on March 28, 2008 9:09 PM

This is a droolworthy post. My fave dessert at one of our local restaurants is a Brownie- Hot Butterscotch Sundae. TDF!

Posted by: Lori the RecipeGirl on March 29, 2008 9:31 AM

I tried to make butterscotch in college when I was craving it but it was a disaster. I guess I should give it another shot...it is always so good! thanks for the post!

Posted by: Ginny on March 29, 2008 11:00 AM

I made this and it was sooooo tasty and I could have eaten it all my self.

Posted by: Alex on March 29, 2008 2:52 PM

This looks delicious and will be on the list to prepare next week. My dad is going to love it!

Can I also "can" it in jars with a hot water bath? I'd love to give some as gifts around the holidays. Thanks!

Hello JamieAZ,
My first guess to your question about "putting up" this butterscotch sauce is yes, but I have never tried it myself so I don't want to guarantee it.

Please make sure that when you are cooling down the butterscotch, do so in a bowl set in another bowl of ice water. Season it when it has come to room temperature, but then cool it all the way to chilled and then "can" it.

The truth is that I have been known to eat and use butterscotch I made last year but everyone's refrigerator is different and I can not absolutely guarantee everyone's butterscotch will last that long.

If you do end up jarring it and it works out can you stop back in a few months and tell us? Thank you. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Jamie AZ on March 29, 2008 3:26 PM

this looks so great -- I was wondering about the difference between caramel and butterscotch too, but you cleared it up! i love them both far, far too much.

one more quick question -- did you strain it after it sits at room temperature? I presume yes but I've had mixed results with similar (caramel) recipes -- sometimes there's so much gunk (milk curds, I guess) to strain out, it's a little gross! any tips on reducing that?

Hello Katy,
To strain or not to strain, this is a great question. My experience is that if you follow this method there is no reason to strain.

The final 10 minutes of cooking-- boiling and frothing and bubbling on the stove turn this sauce from a mixture to an emulsion. Meaning that in the last stage the cream binds with butter and brown sugar and what should come out of the pot is one cohesive body of butterscotch.

When I was making this batch to test for Simply Recipes I scaled down quite a bit, as the batches I usually make for restaurants yield about 10 times the amount. I have found that if little bits of brown sugar do not dissolve once the cream has been whisked in thoroughly, straining at the end is necessary. ~ Shuna

Posted by: katy on March 30, 2008 8:31 AM

Canning it sounds like a great idea. Butterscotch is one of those things you don't necessarily need all the time, but should always have on hand, like a rich homemade fudge sauce. Just for emergencies of course...

Posted by: Nick on March 30, 2008 9:06 AM

Hi Shuna and Elise,

Not to be redundant, but I'm wondering if you can clarify the comments about heavy cream? Where can one purchase non-ultra-pasteurized heavy cream in the Bay Area?

Also, you mentioned to another commenter that if the ingredient list doesn't contain any stabilizers, then its ok. However, my experience is that stabilizers and ultra-pasteurization do not necessarily go hand in hand. So, is it ok to use ultra-pasteurized heavy cream if it does not contain stabilizers?

I've been looking for non-ultra-pasteurized heavy cream for quite some time but, even in Berkeley, have had a hard time finding it. Thanks in advance! I can't wait to try this recipe!

Hello Rachelle,
Thanks for your query. My experience is that when cream is ultra pasteurized it is treated in this manner so as to extend shelf life. Oftentimes, but as you said, not always, ultra pasteurized cream also contains stabilizers because, in truth, it is quite difficult to guarantee that cream will remain shelf stable for long periods of time.

In the Bay Area of Northern California we are lucky enough to have too many options for high quality cow dairy liquids. (Not too mention goat and "alternative" milks.) What I love to use, when I can afford it, is Clover's Organic line. It's what Chez Panisse uses. Strauss dairy, another option to us, is so unstable (it is not homogenized and it's pasteurized at the lowest legal temperature to insure a fresh flavor) that it is best eaten out of the bottle and not used in baking purposes-- the outcomes are so varied that it can prove to be an expensive experiment.

There's also a few brands of Raw cream and milk but those are quite difficult to get in bulk on a regular basis. None of these that I've mentioned are ultra pasteurized and none have stabilizers in them.

Restaurants and large food service industries also have something else available to us, in major American cities, called Manufacturing Cream. My experience with this product is that some are full of stabilizers and some are not; some are ultra pasteurized and those are usually full of stabilizers. It is very hard to whip a cream that has stabilizers and is ultra pasteurized, for example, never mind that the taste is slightly bitter, and in my experience for desserts, off putting.

Cream's sweet and delicious taste comes from butterfat, pure and simple, and if that cow has eaten not so delicious foods (cows are actually very picky eaters and prefer greenery rich in the nutrients that give their milk it's body and flavor) their cream will reflect this right away.

Does this detailed information help or just confuse matters? Here in California look for cream from Berkeley Farms, Clover, or Strauss-- I have found all of these creams to be delicious. In the rest of the country and outside of the USA I can only make suggestions about what not to buy, if you want that creamy body and taste of cream in a recipe where flavor and viscosity matters. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Rachelle on March 30, 2008 5:23 PM

I'm going to make and can this sometime this week. I'll be seeing my dad in mid-May, so I want to test it on him then. I'll report back and let everyone know how it did after canning. Thanks!

Posted by: Jamie AZ on March 30, 2008 9:22 PM

I used to think I hated butterscotch as a child, but discovered I basically can't stand those yellow Brach's butterscotch candies! Butterscotch sauce is, of course, dreamy.

My question is: Do you think the original hard Butterscotch candy mentioned in the intro (that had to be scored and broken) might have resembled the flavor and color of those Brach's candies? (I imagine there's also a candy shop out there practicing the old technique that could also answer this one.)
PS: Thanks so much for all your time in answering these questions!

Susan,
I fear the ingredients, the way they use them and the recipes for hard candies are a much hidden secret. If you find a candy shop still making their candies from scratch that's great but my experience is that there are very few of these left.

You're best bet is to buy some of these candies because it appears that they are using a near 200 year old recipe. Perhaps the worst that can happen is you'll make one of your neighbors happy if you don't like the flavor yourself.

If I were allowed a guess I would say that Brachs and most commercial companies are using artificial flavors of some sort. ~ Shuna

Posted by: Susan on March 31, 2008 7:35 AM

Shuna, This is so fab!
I love butterscotch, and recently found a recipe using it in a souffle...only, it comes out quite plain and not really "butterscotchy." (The recipe is from The Dessert Bible) Do you think it is just too delicate a flavor for a souffle?

Hello Rachael,
This is a great question. And perhaps one I can not answer without looking at or even following the recipe you're speaking of.

Yes, some flavors are too subtle to translate over all those egg whites/ meringue in a souffle. My own personal experience with souffles is that they are light in texture, of course, but also in pin-down-able flavor.

Perhaps you could make a vanilla souffle and pour butterscotch sauce into it? ~ Shuna

Posted by: Rachael on April 2, 2008 4:43 PM

This is fantastic. Love butterscotch. Never knew it was so easy. Thank for your inspiring this non-cook to cook!

Posted by: Krista on April 5, 2008 7:54 AM

Where did I go wrong?

I made this last night - wanting to top it on some cinnamon rolls - but when cooled to room temperature, it became quite hard, almost fudge like. Any thoughts?

Thank you.

Hello Terry,
I'm a little bit confused about what your issue is. Did it become hard while it was still hot or after being chilled?

My own butterscotch gets thick as well, after it has been cooled. But a quick flash on the stove, in the microwave or dissolved into custard base quickly loosens it again.

How much the butterscotch hardens depends on these factors:

The lighter your cream is in viscosity and butterfat. The longer you boil everything together at the end. If your pot is much larger than the space the ingredients take up means heat distribution will happen at a faster rate. If your burners are gas and your BTU capacity is higher than most home stove tops. If you cooked the butter-brown sugar mixture a little too long.

Does this help or make matters more confusing? Please do leave another comment-question if you have more. ~ Shuna

Posted by: terry on April 8, 2008 2:01 AM

Thank you for sharing recipes for REAL butterscotch. I never really knew how that flavor came to be, but had a hunch it was brown sugar. I'm going to try this tonight for dessert over ice cream.

Bless you!
Jody

Posted by: Jody on April 8, 2008 1:52 PM

OMG!!! This was delish!!!
I could've eaten the whole panful, but shared with the rest of my family.

Thank YOU!
Jody

Posted by: Jody on April 8, 2008 9:15 PM

Thanks so much Shuna for responding.

It does help. What happened was I made the butterscotch, cooled it down a bit, then when I added the salt, the whole thing separated and it was really oily. So I reheated it to see if it would form again. When I cooled it and it was at room temperature, it was hard. Totally hard like fudge. I could not stir it to add more vanilla and salt as instructed.

It sounds as though I over heated. I will try it again.

I'm like the person who is a terrible singer so only sings in the privacy of her own home but at the top of her lungs. I'm like that in the kitchen, but I keep trying and trying anyway because its so fun!

Best.

Posted by: terry on April 9, 2008 4:50 AM

Oh my goodness! That is like heaven in a spoon. I WILL make that. (And maybe I'll share it with people.) Thank you!

Posted by: sher on April 14, 2008 12:20 AM

Thank you for sharing.

I've been in such a confusion about butterscotch sauce. We recently tried our hand at making butterscotch to go with a "warm toffee cake" (can be found here: http://eatingclubvancouver.blogspot.com/2008/04/warm-toffee-cake-la-rekados.html).

I wanted to have a sauce that was smoother and thinner in consistency. I'll try this recipe next time!


Posted by: js on April 17, 2008 4:51 PM

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