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Mexican Red Chili Sauce

Mexican Red Chili Sauce

Red chili sauces are used in many Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes, such as red chile enchiladas or tamales. On doing research for this post I found references to many different ways of making red chile sauce; in Mexico alone there are as many ways to prepare this sauce as there are varieties of chilies, and even more when you take into account the regional twists. The following is a recipe for a basic red chili sauce, made with Ancho chilies (called by some Pasilla chiles - see notes). The basic technique was taught to me by my Mexican friend, Arturo Vargas, and helped along with notes from Diana Kennedy's From My Mexican Kitchen: Techniques and Ingredients.

Why make your own sauce? Making your own chile sauce is not much different than making your own spaghetti sauce. If you have the time, it's worth doing. In addition to creating a sauce with fantastic taste, dried chilies are inexpensive and easy to store. If you are making up a large batch of tamales, enchiladas, or chili beans you will likely need a lot of sauce, and if you make your own, you can easily make as much sauce as you need. Do you have a favorite recipe for Mexican or Tex-Mex chili sauce? If so, please let us know in the comments.

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Mexican Red Chili Sauce Recipe

Ingredients

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3 dried Ancho (sometimes called pasilla in the US*) chiles OR 2 Ancho and 2 Guajillo chiles
Water
1 large clove garlic
2 whole cloves, crushed
2 black peppercorns, crushed
1/2 teaspoon of salt, more to taste
Olive oil

* According to Diana Kennedy, Pasilla chilies are a long and skinny variety of chile, while Ancho chilies (dried poblanos) are shorter and wider. However, in certain parts of Mexico, the Ancho chile is called Pasilla, and because of immigration, is commonly known as Pasilla in many parts of the US.

Method

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1 Working on one chile at a time, use a paring knife to cut a slit all the way down one side of a chile. Open up the chile and remove the stem and seeds. Remove as much of the veins as you can. Reserve a few of the seeds or veins for adding later if you want added heat. Note when working with chilies, either wear protective gloves or wash your hands very thoroughly with soap and warm water after handling the chilies. Do not touch or rub your eyes if you have been handling chili peppers.

2 Heat a large skillet on medium heat. Flatten out the dried chilies as well as you can and place on the skillet to heat. Press down on the opened chilies and leave for a few seconds. Turn the chilies over and heat a few seconds more. You do not want to toast or burn the chilies, just heat them enough to draw out more of the flavor.

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3 Add the chilies to a small saucepan and add enough water so that they are just covered. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let sit for 10 minutes, until the chilies have softened and plumped up. (OR pour place the chilies in a small saucepan and pour boiling water over them to cover. Let sit for 15 minutes, until softened.)

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4 Reserving the soaking water, remove the chilies from the pan and place in a blender. Add the garlic, salt, ground pepper, ground cloves, and 1 1/2 cups of the soaking liquid (taste the soaking water first, if it seems bitter, use water instead). Purée for 2 minutes, until the sauce is completely smooth. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning. If you want more heat, add in a few of the seeds or veins and purée some more. Add more salt if needed.

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5 Pour the sauce through a sieve into a skillet. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to the sauce. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to maintain the simmer, cook for 10 minutes. Skim off the foam. Remove from heat. Use immediately or pour into a glass jar (plastic will get stained) and refrigerate.

Makes a little more than 1 cup.

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28 Comments

This looks fabulous -- so rich and smooth! Do you know -- Elise or any readers out there -- if this would traditionally have been made with a mortar and pestle? If so, I'm guessing you would grind the solid ingredients and then stir in the water as needed, right? I'm eager to try this but I'm doing without a blender or food processor at the moment....

Posted by: Preeta on June 10, 2007 6:25 AM

Nice! I have my green chile recipe down to a science, but I modify the spices slightly each batch in search of perfection or depending on the "flavor mood" I am in when I make it. Although I love green (pork) chile, red chile is preferred over enchiladas for me at least. It will be nice to not buy canned. I will have to try this out. Thanks!

Posted by: merd on June 10, 2007 8:51 AM

There's really no excuse for not making your own! I learned mine from a Mexican colleague, Jose, and it's almost the same as yours -- only I add a good bit of cumin, and boil the peppers with a whole onion, in large chunks. For a nice tanginess I'll also put in one or two tomatillos, but my standard is just peppers, onion, garlic, comino, and salt.

Now I got a craving. Heeee!

Posted by: Emily on June 10, 2007 8:54 AM

I love the color of this sauce.
Mike (Donna Thomas) is trying to get me to do more scratch Mexican cooking. Maybe when I get more time, like when the boys are in college.

Posted by: Chigiy on June 10, 2007 11:05 AM

I did this for the first time and made two mistakes which I will NOT repeat. First, I chose not to use gloves when picking the seeds out and handling the peppers. PAIN. Next, I did not let the chili mixture cool completely when I put the slop in the blender. The heat and steam forced the top off and my curtains are still splattered with red. I got very lucky that the stuff didn't fly towards me. Shudder. It's a very labor intensive dish, but even with all of that, it was still densely flavored and luscious. I chose to serve it in some Chile Colorado.

Posted by: Steve E. on June 10, 2007 1:49 PM

Hi Merd - care to share your recipe with us?

Hi Steve - great point about the gloves. I don't usually use them myself, but one must take care. You should let the chilies sit in the hot water for no longer than 15 minutes. Otherwise the chilies may lose too much flavor. The soaking water will still be pretty warm. If it is an issue with your blender, then I would suggest holding the top of the blender on while you blend.

Posted by: Elise on June 10, 2007 1:55 PM

When I was taught to make red chile sauce (in New Mexico), I learned to make a roux to thicken the sauce in the last cooking step. I agree with Steve about the gloves, *especially* if you wear contacts like I do. If you take them out after cooking chiles, you'll think someone pepper-sprayed you the next morning. Ouch! I buy bulk food prep glove boxes and use them whenever I cook with chiles.

Posted by: Dan on June 10, 2007 2:41 PM

This is a simple one I've used for quite a while. I use ground New Mexico chillies, but you can use what you prefer.

4 Tbsp corn oil
3 Tbsp chili powder
1 1/2 tsp cumin powder
3/4 tsp garlic powder
5 Tbsp flour
1/2 tsp + pinch kosher salt
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
3 cups water

Heat oil in medium sauce pan over medium heat. When hot, add dry ingredients and mix well. Stir for about one minute. Add water and continue stirring until thickened to a thin gravy.

Posted by: Tyson on June 10, 2007 3:34 PM

I grew up watching our housekeeper who was from the interior of Mexico make her red sauce and this brings back wonderful memories. Preeta's question made me think back to how she prepared the sauce without a blender. She used a ricer to grind the wet chiles into a paste and then added reserved liqued to make a sauce of whatever consistency she needed. I think a mortar and pestle, or probably better a molcajete, would work instead of a blender.
I've always added cumin to my sauce, probably because it is my absolute favorite spice. My mother-in-law once joked that I bought more cumin in bulk every 3 months than she has used in a lifetime. This sauce is the perfect base for two of my favorite dishes: cheese enchiladas (with onions, but no meat please) and chile con carne (plenty of meat here). Even though it's 95 degrees outside here in Texas, I think I'm going to break my summer "no cooking in the oven" rule and whip up a batch of enchiladas.
For those who love traditional Mexican cuisine, I highly recommend Roberto Santibanez's new cookbook, Rosa's New Mexican Table. Roberto is the brilliant chef behind the Rosa Mexicano restaurants, and I was lucky enough to take a cooking class with him earlier this week. It was amazing. I've just put up a post on my blog about what I learned in my class and the fantastic food he prepared for us.

Posted by: Natanya on June 10, 2007 6:18 PM

I like to fire-roast fresh chilies first. It adds a smokey quality that isn't as overwhelming as something like liquid smoke.

Posted by: Kelly Mahoney on June 10, 2007 8:30 PM

Hi Elise!

I made a guajillo chili sauce this weekend that was SO good (but hot) so I think my sauce was much more of a hot sauce, and this is a versatile milder sauce.

I also used vinegar and garlic, adding a few other dimensions of flavor beyond the pure chili.

Here is the link:
http://homecookkirsten.blogspot.com/2007/06/carne-asada-tacos-with-avocado.html

I really adore all chili sauces, thanks for the recipe! :)

Posted by: Kirsten on June 10, 2007 10:10 PM

Elise,
Could you make some suggestions on how to use this in making enchiladas?
I noticed you have some beautiful sounding enchilada recipes, but I'd love to incorporate this sauce properly and not mess things up :-)
(In fact, any recipes incorporating this sauce would be fabulous.)

Posted by: Amanda on June 10, 2007 11:41 PM

I grow hot peppers and each fall we make hot sauce. It's really hot! Just a few drops are all you need to add to your recipe. I use a combination of Habanero, Jalapono and Tobassco peppers.
Remove stems from the peppers.
Course chop the peppers.
Put a one inch layer of the chopped peppers in a wide mouth jar.
Cover the peppers with a dusting of course salt.
Continue layers of peppers and salt until the jar is full.
Cover the top with cheese cloth and put in the fridge for 1 week.
After a week cover the peppers in the jar with white vinegar up to the top and return to the fridge for another week.
After that week liquefy the entire contents of the jar in a blender.
Strain the seeds from the mixture and return the mixture to the jar and put back into the fridge for one more week.
Skim the clear vinegar that will rise to the top of the jar.
Bottle the remaining contents of the jar and enjoy.
This year we are going to experiment with adding garlic, fruit, etc for something new.

Posted by: Mark on June 11, 2007 8:42 AM

Thanks everyone, for the recipes, please keep them coming!

Hi Amanda - my mom's chicken enchiladas recipe is a great use of the red chili sauce, just use it instead of whatever sauce is called for in the recipe.

Hi Debbie - you only get hurt if you rub your eyes, or if you have a cut on the skin of your fingers. I just wash my hands really well after working with chili peppers. If you wear contacts however, as mentioned by Dan above, you will definitely want to wear gloves. We have some thin, non-latex disposable gloves that work great.

Posted by: Elise on June 11, 2007 9:40 AM

You're not kidding. I've tried numerous recipes for red sauces, and green ones too. The good thing is, I usually like them all! Looks like I'll be trying another one.

Posted by: Susan from Food "Blogga" on June 11, 2007 5:11 PM

Elise, that has to be one of my favorite pictures of yours. Great contrast!

Posted by: Jesse Gardner on June 12, 2007 7:02 AM

I also was taught to make it this way, with one slight addition, lard or veg. shortening. Just a tablespoon or so to add a nice gloss to it.

Posted by: Karen Hughes on June 13, 2007 1:11 PM

The postings happened last year but I just saw the recipe and wanted to add my comments. First, I would like to know how to use the recipe that Mark sent in. At first I thought it was for pickled chiles, like you can buy canned in the grocery stores, but since everything is blended together into a sauce, I'm not sure what it would be used for and what kind of taste it would add. Also, I live in Tucson, Arizona and I have never heard of adding cloves to red chile sauce. Also, here we can buy the red chile ground or in a paste so you can get a head start. To me, it also needs a lot of salt to bring out the flavor!!

Posted by: Diane on January 15, 2008 9:03 PM

My family makes their "Mole" as we call it with dry ingredients.

Powdered chile (sold at most grocery stores. I use California Chile Powder)
garlic salt
salt
pepper
chicken broth
flour
oil

in a large pan, pour oil, and flour. Brown the flour then slowly pour in the chicken broth to desired amount of sauce. Sprinkle Chile powder to desired color/taste. Season with garlic salt, salt, and pepper.
* You must constantly stir as you add the chicken broth to avoid lumps. Continue stirring until all lumps are gone.


Add more flour/ chicken broth or water depending on desired consistency.

Posted by: happy girl on July 27, 2008 8:55 PM

to Steve E.....: yikes!!!! I laughed at you and at myself. I live in northern Mexico, and I roasted and peeled 70, yes, SEVENTY chiles poblanos! with no gloves. Pain? nahhhhh, of course! Two weeks with my hands swollen and of course, pain! and then I said, gloves! Yes, I did not make the same mistake twice. Oh! and the blender? I did that too. And now I don't hang curtains, less to clean.

and onc comment on this sauce, if you use Anaheim dried red chile, is milder and Guajillo or Ancho chiles.

Posted by: helen on August 28, 2008 9:37 PM

Elise,

Thanks for this wonderful recipe. I am a culinary student and love trying out new things. I used to live in New Mexico and I miss the wonderful Hatch Red and Green Chile's that are in everything there. They are actually in season now! (Sept)

I made this recipe today using 2 Ancho and 2 Guajillo chiles. It is quite bitter on the backend. Is that the way it is supposed to taste or did something go wrong on my end?

No matter, it is a wonderful technique and I look forward to trying different variations.

I ordered Diana Kennedy's book using your amazon link. I'm looking forward to getting it, plus I thought it would be a nice way to support your site. Thanks again.

With something like this, which is so dependent on the actual ingredients you are using, I think you need to taste and adjust. Sometimes I find that the anchos can be a little unidimensional in flavor, which is why if you have guajillo, they make a nice addition. The bitterness could be the result of just one of your chiles being on the bitter side. If I were trying to adjust for a sauce that was on the bitter side I might add some roasted garlic to the mix. ~Elise

Posted by: James on September 5, 2008 2:10 PM

Elise,

After several days of experimentation, I think I've finally hit on a winner using this technique.

I found a suggestion that said you should taste the water you used to boil the peppers in. If it tastes bitter the suggestion was to discard it and use fresh. I was very hesitant to throw it out because I felt like I would be throwing out some of the sauce flavor, but after a lot of trial and error, it turns out that to keep the sauce from turning bitter, it's best to discard the water from boiling (I'm still experimenting with using only a small portion of it). Instead of using just plain tap water to replace it, I used chicken stock instead. After I tried that, making great tasting sauce was easy.

I have experimented with different chiles. On one trip to the market I found some Morita peppers that smelled so good I just had to get them. I also found some New Mexico Red chiles that taste great.

You suggestion for roasted garlic instead of non-roasted was delicious. I also added some Smoked Paprika (it tastes great in everything spicy!)

Once again thanks. I hope these suggestions might be of some help.

Posted by: James on September 10, 2008 12:46 PM

I made this sauce and it was quite bitter. Any idea why? I'm stumped.

If you read the comments immediately preceding this one, you'll see a discussion re: bitterness and what to do about it. ~Elise

Posted by: Cynthia on October 18, 2008 10:32 AM

I'd like to make this soon, but I don't have any chili's on hand. Could I substitute chili powder? If so, is there a particular kind you would recommend and how much?

You cannot simply substitute chili powder for the chiles in this recipe. If I were to attempt to make a red chili sauce using just the powder, I would start with a lot of the chili powder, add enough water to give it a sauce consistency, heat a little oil in a frying pan until quite hot, add the sauce and cook it for several minutes. I have no idea how it would taste though, and personally would not attempt it. It would be an expensive experiment. Chilies, if you can get a hold of them are quite inexpensive. ~Elise

Posted by: Shannon on November 14, 2008 11:05 AM

STOP! Search the comments for "bitter" BEFORE you start and follow the suggestion to avoid an inedibly bitter dish!
I am SO frustrated. What a waste of $9 of dried peppers and 2 hours. I understand now that it was a matter of the peppers I had, but this recipe REALLY needs to be changed to advise to discard the boiling water. I was new to this site and when I looked, didn't see the link to the comments before I started. Grrrrr!

Sorry for your frustration (and the wasted time and $). I have made an adjustment to the recipe, though personally it isn't a problem that I have encountered. ~Elise

Posted by: BigFishLilPond on February 8, 2009 3:16 PM

Mine came out brown. Tasted fine (although it came out a little thin), smelled AWESOME, but it was brown! Was it my chiles?

Could be. By the way, if it was too thin, you could simmer it longer until it reduced more. ~Elise

Posted by: Ashley on February 22, 2009 6:23 PM

Instead of flattening the anchos onto a skillet, can I just pop them into a 400-degree oven for a couple of minutes? I want to quadruple the recipe and I'm kind of lazy.

I would guess no, but if you try it, let us know how it turns out. I would do the skillet method first for comparison. ~Elise

Posted by: Linda7 on April 5, 2009 3:47 PM

On the skillet vs. oven for heating the prepared and flattened anchos: If you do the oven, do preheated 400-degrees for 1 minute, then check. They should be hot but in no way 'crispy.' I put mine on a baking sheet bare. Pay attention...4 minutes is a whole pan of ruined peppers! If you are making a single or double recipe, stick with the skillet. The results are the same.

Posted by: Linda7 on April 5, 2009 6:15 PM

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